To Save an Endangered Species, Dine Out More Often

‘Preserving endangered species and the environment in the most delicious way possible’

To Eat or Not to Eat
You may ask, can eating a specimen of a critically rare species actually help to ensure the survival of that species? It may seem counterintuitive, but the simple answer is, yes. It’s no secret that our planet’s resources have been subject to increasing stress since advances in technology have given humans the ability to expand their environment into places that were once wilderness.

Continuous population growth, expansion of our developed lands, and excessive use of natural resources has led to the disappearance of species and a dramatic decrease in biodiversity in the wild. In the case of livestock in America, antibiotics and breeding techniques have been developed over decades which have diminished our reliance on breeds of livestock that were once valued for their natural heartiness and disease resistance. Rather, new mass-produced cross-breeds of livestock have proliferated in the marketplace as a function of convenience and cost effectiveness, though not necessarily of flavor.

Our Farm to Table Commitment
At the Kittle House, food has always meant more to us than as a product to put on a plate for sale to our customers. Food and wine are an intrinsic part of our culture of seeking out the finest, most naturally delicious elements of our lives. Eating is life, and eating well is living a good life. And eating well while helping to preserve our environment and history just adds another value to what we do every day of our lives.

We have been very fortunate that our restaurant, which traces its roots back to a major farm, is situated at the crossroads of the Hudson Valley. For us, the ‘farm to table’ movement actually began quite innocently and quietly in the early 1980’s when local foragers and small farmers would bring their wares to the kitchen door of our restaurant for sale. We soon found that the local products that they shared with us were of superior quality, and with our purchases we were able to provide a means for them to expand their practices to more formal operations.

The same phenomenon began to occur with chickens, ducks, cows, and now pigs, and we have become active supporters of the movement to preserve heritage breeds which were once bred as a natural selection of hearty, and tasty, aspects of our lives. One such breed which has come to our attention is the ‘Mulefoot Pig’. Once the most prolific breed of pig in America, in recent years it has become nearly extinct, with only one natural herd left in the country.

Our chef, Jay Lippin, is an active member of the Livestock Conservancy, an organization whose mission is “genetic conservation and the promotion of heritage breeds,” which is inherent to the larger mission of protecting our food systems. The Livestock Conservancy works to:

• protect our food systems by keeping alternative livestock and poultry genetic resources secure;
• ensure the availability of broad genetic diversity for the continued evolution of agriculture;
• conserve valuable genetic traits such as disease resistance, survival, self-sufficiency, fertility, longevity, foraging ability, maternal instincts;
• preserve our heritage, history, and culture;
• maintain breeds of animals that are well-suited for sustainable, grass-based and organic systems; and
• give small family farms raising heritage breeds a competitive edge.

A True Speciality: The Mulefoot Pig
The Mulefoot Pig was once a standardized breed in America. Now, this species is on the Livestock Conservancy’s critical list and we hope it will not be added to the list of 6 of 15 breeds of pigs that have disappeared from the US since the 1930s. One way of preventing this from happening is to create market demand for the breed.

If there is market demand, then farmers and breeders will find a way to meet that demand. If we are able to help create demand for the Mulefoot Pig by promoting its flavor and sustainability attributes, then farmers will be able to afford to breed these animals to produce a larger, sustainable population.

Now, we do not want the Mulefoot Pig’s demand to skyrocket to the point that it will become a product of factory farming. For over 30 years, the Kittle House has been committed to supporting local, small-scale purveyors who produce quality over quantity. The rewards for supporting local are numerous, including supporting the local economy, the local community, and, of course, the local environment.

Humanely Raised = Superior Flavor
It is truly undeniable that the quality, flavor, and texture of meat is impacted by the way an animal is raised. In the case of the Mulefoot Pig, this heritage breed was raised almost as a pet by a couple of local farmers, and it delivers a moist, juicy, and more flavorful experience than your typical supermarket pork. The meat from this pig is dense and fattier than traditional pork, but we believe its flavors will truly be appreciated. Whether braising, grilling, or roasting, it requires more time and attention to detail in order to soften and cook the prized possession into a delectable piece of meat. What happens during this process is the fat bathes the meat, limiting the need for additional fat added to the dish.

As the famed food writer Florence Fabricant of the New York Times put it, heritage pork is “darker, more heavily marbled with fat, juicier and richer-tasting than most pork, and perfect for grilling.”

Eat to Save
It isn’t exactly an easy task to get this prized livestock, which is why Kittle House has partnered with the independent farmers Erin and Ray Brandt from Helder Herdwyck Farm, a holistically managed, sustainably operated regenerative family farm in upstate New York. We committed to purchasing two whole pigs from them, and we have been planning for this delivery all year long. Finally the time has come.

We aren’t going to lie, to arrange the opportunity to have a Mulefoot Pig featured for a short time costs a pretty penny. Heritage breeds take longer to reach market weight than conventional breeds, and because they also produce a higher percentage of body fat, fewer of those pounds consist of marketable cuts.

Only True Foodies Allowed!
If you are a true foodie, then it is an absolute must that you come try Chef Jay’s Mulefoot Pig. Come taste the difference yourself and see yet another reason (among the multitude) to promote and sustain this species.

Who knew you it would be so easy to wine and dine while doing good for the local community!